Turn-shoe making



ALBERT E. JOHNSON, OF BEVERLY,

MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF NEW JERSEY.

MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGN OR TO UNITED SHOE PATERSON, NEW JERSEY,

A CORPORATION OF TURN -SI-IOE MAKING.

No Drawing.

1 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ALBERT E. JOHNSON, a citizen of the United States, residin at Beverly, in the county of Essex and S tate of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Turn-Shoe Making; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains, to make and use the same.

This invention relates to improvements in turn shoe making and more particularly to a novel method of making turn soles which adds quality to the finished shoe and perfects the shoemaking process.

In a turn shoe the feather surface of the sole which is exposed adjacent the upper is on the flesh side of the sole and consequently it is rough in appearance requiring a finishing operation thereon. This finishing operation cannot be performed before turning the upper because after the sole and upper havebeen assembled the feather surface which finally is exposed is completely covered by the lasted upper. Heretofore, therefore, the finishing operation has generally been performed as one of the final operations after turning. Shoe manufacturers have found that the upper is liable to injury if an attempt is madeto burnish the exposed feather or margin of the sole of the turned shoe and have been content to limit the finishing of the sole to an inking operation only. Obviously, ink alone on the flesh side of the sole does not provide the finish that is desired.

The object of the present invention is to improve the method of making turn soles in a manner that will produce a highly burnished margin 'without injury to the upper, thus enabling manufacturers who practise the methods to secure a finish on the exposed portion of the flesh side of the sole which will be pleasing in appearance and harmonious with the finish of the remainder of the shoe.

By the present method it is proposed to ink the margin of the sole to its flesh side and burnish the inked margin before the sole is incorporated in theshoe thus eliminating any possibility of injury to the Specification of Letters Patent.

-ceeding steps of the present upper. Accordingly the sole is fitted in the usual way by channeling or channeling and shoulder1ng,'as may be desired for the type of shoe being made, in any commerc1al turn sole channeler, such for example as 1s disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to F. E. Bertrand N 0. 1,080,704, dated June 25, 1912. After channeling the sole is completed for incorporatlon in the shoe by inking, moldingand burnishing its feather. It should be understood that the term molding, as herein used, has reference to the breaking down of the sole margin usually performed by a turn sole molding machine of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to William C. Meyer No. 1,110,637, dated September 15, 1914.

These steps are preferably although not necessarily performed in the order named. One method of proceeding is to first perform the usual sole molding operation and then ink and burnish the margin of the sole in any convenient manner before assembling it with the upper. Those skilled in the art will recognize, however, that the sole molding operation must'be performed in a ma chine having the molding roll which bears on the feather provided with a' smooth feather engaging face otherwise the sucprocess can not be carried out successfully. Obviously, if the feather be r ughened by engagement with a feed wheel ironed smooth again and, furthermore, it wilL not take the ink perfectly. The best sole molding machine known to the inventor for use in practising the present method is that disclosed in the A. E. Johnson application Ser. No. 258.758, renewed October 18, 1918 which resulted in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,307,820, dated June 24, 1919, because in that machine the sole is fed by its edge and the feather engaging face of the feather molding roll is smooth.

It will also be observed that the feather molding roll of said machine is of larger diameter than the feed roll. Since these two rolls are driven from the same shaft the molding roll travels at a greater peripheral speed than'the feed roll and consequently Patented Dec. 21, 1920. Application filed December 28, 1918. Serial No. 268,734.

it cannot successfully be 1 where it engages the feather it acts as an ironing tool rapidly rubbing and burnishing the flesh side of the feather. Accordingly it is preferred to ink the margin of the sole on its flesh side before performing the sole molding operation and then by using the machine of said Johnson patent the last two steps of the method, '5. e. molding and burnishing the margin may successfully be performed simultaneously.

The machine of the Johnson patent lends itself readily to handling a turn sole the forepart of which has previously been shaped to the approximate contour of the last bottom, because of the size and arrangement of the molding and supporting rolls. A commercial machine which may be used for this forepart shaping operation is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to E. Erickson No. 1,254,894, dated January 29, 1918. Accordingly when the margin molding and burnishing steps are performed by the turn sole molder of the Johnson patent the method may be enlarged by includ ing therein the step of shaping the forepart of the sole to the approximate contour of the last bottom, thus adding quality and accuracy to the shoemaking.

It will be observed that all of the steps of the method described are performed on the sole prior to its incorporation in the shoe and that in the further process of making the shoe the burnished feather is covered and protected by the lasted upper. Consequently when the shoe is turned the burnished margin is fresh and when the shoe is completed its entire appearance is pleasing because of the harmonious finish throughout. The practice of the method thus perfects the methods heretofore employed whereby superior shoemaking is attained.

Having thus described the invention and the preferred manner of practising it, what is claimed as new, is:

1. The method of making turn soles which includes the steps of inking the margin on the flesh side, and then simultaneously molding the margin and ironing the flesh side thereof to burnish the inked portion which is visible in the finished shoe.

The method of making turn soles which includes the steps of channeling and shouldering the sole on itsflesh side, inking the feather produced by the shoulder cut, and ironing the inked feather to burnish it before assembling the sole with the upper.

3. The method of making turn soles which includes the steps of channeling, inking, molding and burnishing the margin of the sole, the last two operations being performed simultaneously.

The method of making turn soles which includes the steps of channeling, inking the margin on the flesh side, and then molding and ironing the inked margin.

The method of making turn soles which includes the steps of channeling, shaping the forepart to approximate the contour of the last bottom, inking the margin on its flesh side, and finally molding and burnishing the marginof the shaped sole, all prior to incorporating the sole in the shoe. I

6. That step in the method of making turn soles which consists in burnishing the flesh side of the margin of the sole prior to assembling with the upper. V

7 That improvement in turn shoe making which consists in ironing the inked feather of a turn sole to burnish said feather, prior to assembling the sole and upper.

ALBERT E. JOHNSON. 

